J. L. MacLaren

  • Home
  •  
  • About
  •  
  • Adlergeist
  •  
  • Designing Creatures
  •  
  • String Theory
  • Knotwork tutorial

String Theory

 

When I was introduced to the Society for Creative Anachronism, I decided to create a Frankish persona. The garb for a frank is fairly simple. The way to make it stand out is to decorate it with beautiful trim. Like most people, I wanted make trim that was historically accurate. There are very few extant piece of clothing of any kind from this time period and region. So I extended my search to include all forms of Frankish, Merovingian and Carolingian art forms; including stone masonry, glass work, metal work, and illuminated manuscripts.

First, I looked for depictions of clothing. Those are also hard to find.  I continued to search through everything Frankish to get a general idea of their style in all art forms.  I spent several months with my head buried in all things Frankish. Even using my limited knowledge of the German language and Google translate to search through German websites, articles and books. After several mouths of being deep in Frankish culture, the common elements of their designs became so imprinted on my psyche that I would pick apart designs in modern patterns that were Frankish-like.

There are a few basic elements that have stuck out to me. One of those being the curling vine. At the time that I was researching heavily, all I knew how to do was embroidery. With the help of graph paper to keep my lines even, I developed a stencil for this design.

 

 

I knew that I would have to learn card weaving if I wanted to continue my journey into Frankish garb. This is my first time weaving. I took to it like a duck to water. The first thing I wanted to make was curls. I searched the interweb over and most of what I have found was diamonds, diagonals and limited repeating patterns. While these patterns can be very beautiful they do

n’t have the motifs and features I’m looking for, curling vines and leaves.


There are a some websites out there with unique and Frankish like patterns. Two of my favorites are:

Guntram's Tabletweaving Page

Galarie


They have some patterns with curves, but even those are not what I had in mind. So I started making my own patterns based on what I believe to represent Frankish art.

A quick note on pattern usage.

You may use my patterns for personal use. You may use the patterns to make items and sell the items that you have made. You may use any patterns or posts for teaching purposes.  Please site me as your reference.
You may not sell my patterns online or include them in a book you are selling.


My first attempt at pattern making was just getting a curl going. It's thick. The design has been improved but it has not been re-tested. Note: These designs are double face. Each rectangle represents one card and two quarter turns. 





Curls and Vines

Realizing that a simple jog over could make big difference, I began with a slim, basic curl. Then I added a few squares. Up close, it is evident where there is an abrupt shift in the pattern.  From a distance, the mind has a way of smoothing out the shifts.






I changed a few places and came up with a better curl.

       

 


 

More advanced vine with a curl with back curl. I'm also experimenting with adding color on the sides.

 


  Flowers

The flower designs Franks use often had 4 pedals. Sometimes they put leaves behind the petals giving it 8 points. I made as many as four leaf ones I could think of one afternoon.

 

  

 

  


 Crosses

The crosses that the Franks used were the same length on every side. I speculate this may be why they often used flowers with 4 petals. Here is how they might have developed.

 





Vines with leaves


I wove these on the same warp, so I needed to keep the number of cards the same. This meant that one type of leaf had to be moved over which made my vine have a better curve. The other vine almost looks like a zig-zag from a distance.

             

     


The difference between the curves is found in two places.  A simple addition of an extra card to jog it over slightly gives a curve instead of a bent line.  

                                                                                                                                                              

                 


I have developed leaves that are similar to what is found at the end of curling vines in Frankish illuminations.


Larger

  

Smaller

   

Putting several elements together, I came up with this pattern.

             



and this

There many ways to vary the pattern. Use a different flower. Add a few more curls. 


Knotwork

The Franks often used interlace, or knotwork, in their motifs. They were not as elaborate as the ones found in the Celtic and Norse cultures. For knotwork patterns, I have made a tutorial on how to create those patterns for double-face as well as other types of fiber arts.




Birds

Another feature of Frankish art is the use of birds. These aren't the eagle with wings spread you see in modern and late period German motifs. The Franks used small birds, often displayed from the side and usually with long curving beak.


This is an example of what it might look like in card weaving form. I call him Pepin.




Since Pepin is small (13 cards), he can be placed among other patterns, such as along a vine with leaves.






 Note: These designs are double face. Each rectangle represents one card and two quarter turns.

      
 
 

    

     

Anglo-Saxon inspired


  




Adapted from a pattern found in Celtic Charted Designs (Dover Embroidery, Needlepoint) by Co Spinhoven


Adapted from a pattern found in Celtic Charted Designs (Dover Embroidery, Needlepoint) by Co Spinhoven

 

Adapted from a pattern found in Celtic Charted Designs (Dover Embroidery, Needlepoint) by Co Spinhoven


Greek Inspired



              








My only attempt at a thread-in pattern.




 

 

Another area of card weaving I feel is under explored is the use of animals and objects. This extends to all time periods. 



A bit more about my methods. When I wanted to make leaves, I thought about their basic shapes, a circle with a triangle. So I started with a basic ball shape and worked a triangle shape every direction I could.  Now I have several leaf shapes I can choose from.


An additional note on testing. I can't say enough about testing. Something looks one way on paper and another once it's woven. Here is a long leaf I tried to make. Woven, it looks kinda like a chill pepper. 

 Note: These designs are double face. Each rectangle represents one card and two quarter turns.



My first lion. 

   


My improved lion.

  


The idea of breaking objects into their basic elements doesn't always work. I tried making a bear, round head, oval body, round back side and stick legs. This is what I came up with.

 

I found a needle work pattern to get a better start. Using a large detailed bear, I cut away until it looked good. He has not been tested yet. If there is a photo with pattern, then it has been tested yet.

 

Small bear

  


Hare

    

Dog or Wolves

In the test, I gave the dog fur lines, like the rabbit. They don't look right.


   



Swans
I like the back end of the first one and the front of the second. I combined those and made a new pattern.

       

Raven
   

Squirrel and baby

  

 

Kitty
 



Elephant
 

Swords
 
     

Tree

  



Tweet

Contact